Dar Ahlam

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Dar Ahlam means House of Dreams. We had arrived at the 200-year old kasbah after driving five hours through the Atlas Mountains from Marrakech. There is no reception, telephone or television and no keys. We were presented our room which had no number.

Meals are served anytime you would like and held at a different location each time. Breakfast in the garden, lunch by the pool, and dinner in one of the hidden rooms of the kasbah. One night we were surprised with dinner in a courtyard full of lanterns with a fire and local musicians playing for us. The cuisine varies from French to Moroccan but there is no menu. Each meal was a surprise and there was not a dish we did not like.

The spa offered a traditional Moroccan hammam experience except instead of a public bathhouse we had the spa to ourselves for an hour. The ritual begins with undressing fully before heading into a steam room. While lying on a marble slab, the attendant covers you with a black olive oil soap. You then get a vigorous scrubbing from head to toe with a kessa glove to exfoliate the skin. This is followed by being covered in rhassoul, a mineral clay from the Atlas Mountains, and then finally a thorough rinse. We felt completely refreshed after it all.

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Excursions are available if you are not content with just staying at the kasbah. We visited the nearby Valley of the Roses, named for the flowers that bloom there each spring. Further along the road of a thousand kasbahs is Boumalne Dades, the site of the Dades gorge.  We even spent a night in the Sahara desert, a five-hour drive from Dar Ahlam.

One of the most impressive sites is the ksar of Aït Benhaddou, a fortified Berber village. The Moroccan architecture made from clay can be seen everywhere. Due to the material, it sometimes felt as if a strong rain could melt away an entire town.

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The Fat Duck

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You wouldn’t expect one of the best restaurants in the world to be located in a small and unassuming village, let alone two restaurants. In fact, that is what you will find in the village of Bray — two of UK’s three Michelin star restaurants. The one I had always wanted to go to was Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck. He also runs a one-star gastropub The Hind’s Head and a country pub The Crown, all within a stone’s throw away.

A visit to The Fat Duck isn’t just a meal but an experience. It started with a hard sought-after reservation four months before. A month’s worth of reservations are filled up within minutes of being released. A few weeks before our meal, we were asked to fill out a questionnaire which was then followed up by a phone call. The reason was to be revealed over the course of the meal.

The philosophy behind the restaurant is to recreate childhood memories and nostalgia through food. As such, the menu, or rather the itinerary as they call it, is structured around the chef’s childhood memories of going on a trip: first, waking up and having breakfast, going out to the sea and the woods, having a big dinner and then going off to sleep. Throughout the four hour journey, they included some touches that reflected our own personal memories.

The Day Before We Go: Are we nearly there yet?

 

A CHANGE-OF-AIR

Paloma, Campari soda, Pina Colada, Vodka Lime Sour - who will be the dragon?

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JUST THE TONIC WE NEED

Smoked cumin Royale, Jerusalem artichoke ice cream

Morning: Rise and shine, it’s breakfast time

 

EXCUSE ME, MY TEA SEEMS TO BE COLD…AND HOT.

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WHY DO I HAVE TO CHOOSE BETWEEN A VARIETY PACK AND A COOKED BREAKFAST?

Truffled egg mousse, jellied tomato consomme, bacon and toasted bread cream, cereals

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Mid-morning: First one to see the sea…

 

“SOUND of the SEA”

 
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“CAN I HAVE SOME MONEY FOR AN ICE CREAM?”

Waldorf salad “Rocket”.
Salmon, avocado and horseradish “Twister”.
Crab and passion fruit “99”.

 

THEN WE WENT ROCKPOOLING

Cornish crab, smoked caviar and golden trout roe, velour of white chocolate and sea vegetables

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Afternoon: If you go down to the woods today…

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DAMPING THROUGH THE BOROUGHGROVES…

Mushroom, beet and blackberry, scented with fig leaf, meadowsweet, melilot, oak moss and black truffle

 

…WE DISCOVERED THE MOCK TURTLE PICNIC

Mock turtle soup and egg, toast sandwich

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Evening: Are you ready for dinner?

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STARTER

 
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MAIN COURSE

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DESSERT

 
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DIGESTIF

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Bedtime: Off to the Land of Nod

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And then to dream…

 

COUNTING SHEEP

Malt, orange blossom, tonka, milk, meringue, crystallized white chocolate, pistachio

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LIKE A KID IN A SWEETSHOP

Oxchoc,
caramel in edible wrapper,
Queen of Hearts jam tart,
mandarin scented aerated chocolate