Svalbard

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This is the furthest north we will ever go. Halfway between Norway and the North Pole, Svalbard is the northernmost inhabited place in the world. Although a part of Norway since 1925, anyone can live and work here.

Longyearbyen is the main settlement and is located on the largest island of Spitsbergen. There are a few other small research stations and mine settlements but not much else. Polar bears outnumber people on the archipelago. In fact, is is illegal to go beyond the town of Longyearbyen without a gun or a guide who has one in case of an encounter.

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Do

There are no roads outside of settlements so there are only two modes of transportation in the winter; snowmobiling and dogsledding. The first day we went on an eight-hour snowmobile trip to Tempelfjorden. We drove through valleys and onto the frozen fjord to reach our destination. At -35 degrees Celsius with wind chill, it was a very cold but clear day and we had amazing views of the glaciers and mountains.

The next two nights were spent at the remote Isfjord Radio Hotel. It was another 100 kilometre trip each way on the snowmobile. The terrain was much more difficult than the day before but when we arrived at Isfjord it was all worth it.

When we got back to Longyearbyen, we took a break from the snowmobile and went dogsledding. Unfortunately, due to avalanche risk we did not get a chance to go ice caving but it was still a nice day out with the dogs. Our last day was spent exploring Longyearbyen. There are a few museums and shops around town. There is even a brewery which started production in 2015. Before Svalbard Bryggeri, it was illegal to produce alcohol in Svalbard. We went for a tour and tasting of the northernmost beer. Lastly, we stopped by the Global Seed Vault, the world’s largest seed bank to safeguard against future loss of seeds due to war or global warming.

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EAT

There are surprisingly quite a few good restaurants in Longyearbyen given its remote location. In particular, there are two restaurants housed in historic buildings that serve tasting menus which reflect the local food sources and ingredients.
Gruvalagret
Huset

STAY

Basecamp Hotel in Longyearbyen
Isfjord Radio Hotel

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Maaemo

Maaemo is an Old Norse word meaning ‘Mother Earth’. It is also the name of a restaurant in Oslo which focuses on the flavours and nature of Norway. It only uses organic or wild produce from the country. The tasting menu consists of over twenty dishes and we also opted for the juice pairings. It was an amazing meal and one of our favourite dining experiences.

SnackS

Potato flatbread langoustine claw steamed with  beer and fermented turnip

Potato flatbread
langoustine claw steamed with
beer and fermented turnip

 
Fermented trout  with leek

Fermented trout
with leek

 
Sourdough duck liver and rhubarb

Sourdough
duck liver and rhubarb

MAIN

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Emulsion of Norwegian flat oysters
warm sauce of mussels and dill

 

Paired with smoked apple juice

Scallop cooked in the shell
with fermented celeriac
verbena and smoked scallop roe

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Cod from the arctic gently
cooked with salted butter
horseradish and winter herbs

Paired with white tea and elderflower:

 

Langoustine cooked
with spruce

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Lightly smoked arctic char
aquavit and burned onions

 

Grilled eel
elderflower and warm eggs

 
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Paired with sour plum and cherry:

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Rømmegrøt - a porridge of very sour cream and freshly milled wheat
smoked reindeer heart, browned butter and aged plum. vinegar

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Fresh rolls out the oven
glazed in birch syrup


churned butter and salted butter
with buckwheat

 
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Salt baked rutabaga
broth of salted sheep

Paired with blackcurrant, thyme
and beet vinegar

Duck “Royale”
chestnuts and lingonberries

 
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Paired with black cherry and star anise

Frozen blue cheese with pickled black trumpet mushroom

Dessert

 

Fresh milk and rhubarb root
woodruff and preserved blueberries

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Paired with raw milk and birch

A dessert made from salted butter from Røros

Dessert Snacks

 
Grains and cloudberries

Grains and cloudberries

Young pinecones preserved in honey

Young pinecones preserved in honey

Brown cheese tarte

Brown cheese tarte

 
Buckwheat “chocolate”

Buckwheat “chocolate”

 
Warm traditional Norwegian waffle with miso

Warm traditional Norwegian waffle with miso

Cinnamon bun just out of the oven brown cheese and beef fat

Cinnamon bun just out of the oven
brown cheese and beef fat